Peruvian Designer Anís Samanez Accused of Undermining Indigenous Artistry While Using Indigenous Designs in Her Latest Collection 

A cultural controversy emerged after Anís Samanez made remarks about the Shipibo-Konibo community during the “Orígenes” event last Thursday. The designer, celebrated for her sustainable fashion, now finds herself facing criticism from indigenous leaders and cultural advocates. Her comments, seen as dismissive of the value of indigenous labor and traditions, have drawn attention to the broader issues of exploitation and appropriation in Peru’s creative industries. 

During the event, Samanez expressed frustration over the costs of working with the Shipibo-Konibo on their traditional designs. She said, “You wouldn’t believe how much they wanted to charge me. I’m Peruvian too. Just because I’m from the coast doesn’t make me any less Peruvian.” Her statement, combined with Vogue Mexico and Latin America editor José Forteza’s defense of her—claiming the community “would still be starving” without her—has been widely criticized. Many viewed these comments as an affront to the dignity and contributions of the Shipibo-Konibo people. 

The backlash has been swift and decisive, with Falabella, one of Samanez’s key partners, quietly removing her products from stores and online platforms. 

The Rise of Anís Samanez

Until recently, Samanez’s career was on an upward trajectory. Her collaboration with Falabella, launched just two months ago, was seen as a breakthrough for local fashion. The Falabella x Anís collection, which included apparel, swimwear, and home goods, was celebrated for its accessibility and its connection to Peru’s cultural heritage. 

At the launch event, Samanez declared, “This is the first time in over 30 years that a department store in Peru has fully embraced a designer. Now everyone can experience Anís. This is Anís for the world.” The event brought together leading figures in fashion and entertainment, cementing her as a key voice in Peru’s creative industries. 

A Tipping Point

The fallout from the “Orígenes” event highlighted the deep disconnect between Samanez’s perception of indigenous art and its true cultural significance. Sadith Silvano, an artist from the Cantagallo Shipibo community, criticized her remarks as dismissive of what kené, the intricate art of the Shipibo-Konibo, represents. “Kené is not just a design; it is our worldview, our identity, and our history,” Silvano explained. “Such statements reveal a lack of understanding and respect for our traditions.” 

Journalist Elizabeth Salazar framed the incident as part of a broader issue of systemic racism in Peru. “This is not an isolated comment. It’s a pattern of undervaluing indigenous contributions while profiting from their cultural wealth.” 

Falabella Reacts

Facing mounting criticism, Falabella responded quietly but decisively. Over the weekend, the retailer began offering steep discounts on the Falabella x Anís collection, with items marked down by up to 60%. By Tuesday, the collection was no longer available on Falabella’s website or app. While the company has not released a formal statement, the removal of Samanez’s products indicates a clear decision to distance itself from the controversy. 

The Broader Issue of Cultural Exploitation

The controversy has reignited conversations about cultural appropriation and the lack of protections for indigenous knowledge. Américo Mendoza Mori, an expert on indigenous heritage, emphasized the importance of legal frameworks to protect these traditions. “Indigenous art is often treated as a commodity rather than a living culture. This allows exploitation under the guise of cultural appreciation,” he noted. 

Mendoza Mori pointed to Guatemala’s proposed law on intellectual property rights for indigenous textiles as a potential model for Peru. “Such legislation is crucial to ensuring that communities are fairly compensated and their traditions preserved,” he added. 

A Moment for Reflection

This incident has become a touchstone for broader debates about respect, equity, and cultural preservation in Peru. For the Shipibo-Konibo and other indigenous groups, it underscores the urgent need for recognition and fair treatment in collaborations involving their heritage. While the fallout has dealt a significant blow to Samanez’s reputation, it has also drawn attention to the systemic issues facing Peru’s indigenous communities, igniting a much-needed conversation about justice and cultural respect.